L'Oustal Blanc Minervois Giocoso, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

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The 2007 Minervois Giocoso – which I tasted assembled from tank – is 65% Grenache (raised in tank), with a balance of Syrah and Carignan (raised in barrique, half new), and incorporates fruit from outside of the La Liviniere sub-appellation. Black raspberry, blackberry, carob, gingerbread, and nutmeg in the nose set the theme for a richly ripe yet berry-tart palate of seductive spiciness and underlain by what it is hard not to imagine as something analogous to the schistic stone (rare for Minervois) and chalk on which these grapes grew. This shows a rare purity, lift, refinement, and vivacity you will seek virtually in vain anywhere in this appellation, and the finish is invigorating to the point of exhilaration. I expect it will reward at least 6-8 years of cellaring. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800