The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin impresses for the purity of its fruit and its exceptional balance. This mid-weight, gracious Gevrey is nicely supported by clean veins of minerality that give the wine its focus and energy through the mid-palate and finish. Tar, licorice, freshly cut flowers and spices are some of the nuances that add complexity and dimension on the close. The Gevrey is made from parcels in Carougeot, Bel Air and Fonteny. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. This is a fabulous set of wines from Bruno Clair and his long-time oenologist Philippe Brun. The harvest started on September 25. Yields were 22-30 hectoliters per hectare, which is to say a good 10% less than 2003, a torrid vintage marked by tiny yields. Clair describes the fruit as healthy, with no botrytis and soft tannins from the late harvest. The 2010s were 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 25% for the villages to 50% for the Grand Crus, except for the Marsannays, which saw very little new oak.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151