The 1986 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie is still in the prime of life, offering up an old-school bouquet of toasted nuts, apricot, peach and fresh mushroom that's marked by the botrytis of the vintage. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, with chewy extract and tangy balancing acids. It represents a style of white Burgundy that's no longer produced, but in its combination of concentration and incisiveness, one can see the thread that links it to Alex Moreau's wines today.
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