The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1999 Reserva boasts lovely aromas of damp earth/foresty floor intermixed with black currants, cherries, licorice, and new saddle leather. A big, structured, chewy red, it reveals notions of roasted meats in its full-throttle, concentrated, impressively endowed personality. Give it 1-2 more years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 12-15. Importer: Classical Wines from Spain Ltd., Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 297-6713 and (800) 257-7225

Deep and packed with aromas of cola, earth and violets. It’s open from the gun, with a round, plummy texture, bright fruit and nuances of chocolate and coffee. Very full and balanced, with a good attack, middle and finish. Drink now or hold for several years.——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 90