From the lower part of a site above Clos de Beze that runs high up to the forest, Charlopin's 2006 Gevrey Chambertin Bel Air evokes coffee, chocolate, and malt as well as cooked plum and cherry. In contrast to the relative friskiness of the corresponding Les Evocelles, this is notably creamy and broad, and its very softness in the sense of low acidity seems to encourage the impression of tannin that emerges in the finish. This is admirably well-concentrated but - at least prior to bottling - a bit confectionary and disappointingly simple given the site. It would be worth revisiting in 2010 to assess its further potential. Philippe Charlopin is known for his outgoing personality, which applies also to the wines of his domaine spread over more than two dozen appellations, an astonishing nine of which are grand crus. Elevage is long here, and when I last tasted his 2006s with Charlopin in Spring 2008, none had yet been bottled.Various importers, including The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA 23005; tel. (804) 752-3670 and Elite Wines, Lorton VA; tel. (703) 339-8150 and Wine Imports, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520