If you’re looking for a Cabernet that has all the hallmarks of California cool-climate ripeness and balance, without demanding to be noticed for itself, try this one. It’s dry, elegant and juicy, teasing the palate with fruit, yet wisely pulls back at the last moment, so the food can star. The black currants and smoky oak will perfectly match a charred steak. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 92
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