The 2004 St. Laurent – 20% aged in used barrels and the rest in tank – smells of leather, smoke, and damp humus. Quite thick in texture and rich in flavor, if a bit stewy, it follows the very carnal course already charted by the Zweigelt, but with less success. Still, it certainly represents good value and a good introduction to this variety.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner ($11.00; 85), 2005 Blaufrankisch ($12.00; 86)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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