Laurent Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

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Laurent's top 1993s are massively concentrated, huge, intense wines that will require 8-10 years of cellaring. Laurent's Ruchottes-Chambertin is a great wine. The most voluptuous, seductive, and sweetest of the grand crus, as well as the most forward wine of this estate's portfolio, it offers layers of jammy red and black fruits, gobs of glycerin, full body, and a powerful, moderately tannic finish. Drink it over the next 20+ years.The Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles St.-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenots, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, and Chambertin are all immensely structured, over-sized 1993 red Burgundies that will require considerable patience. Keep in mind that Laurent bottles unfined and unfiltered, so these wines are totally natural expressions of their vineyards, unmanipulated and uncompromised save for Laurent's peculiar elevage of jumping from new oak back to old oak, to new oak again, depending on a particular wine's evolution.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers