Following the traditional blending formula of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Mantellato and Nerello Cappuccio, the 2012 Etna Rosso is an articulate and sophisticated wine even at this young stage in its lifespan. It is aged in 300- and 500-liter chestnut barrels and indeed shows spicy elements of toasted nut and Indian spice. The wine is initially closed, aromatically speaking, but opens slowly to reveal an austere and solemn personality with lingering notes of ash and smoke at the back. Rather than focus on fruit freshness, this Etna Rosso mimics the darkness of the volcano. Under the heirs of the Nicolosi family, Barone di Villagrande boasts one of the longest winemaking histories in Sicily dating back to the 18th century. On Etna, where the vast majority of wineries are relatively new and the exciting buzz surrounding their activities is no more than a decade old, Barone di Villagrande is evidence that Etna has long been considered prime winemaking territory. In addition to this collection of wines from the volcano, the estate makes a terrific Malvasia delle Lipari on the tiny island of Salina in the Aeolian Archipelago. Importer: Omniwines, www.omniwines.com