The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is surprisingly hard and unyielding. Mentholated, balsamic notes add complexity to the dark fruit, followed by earthiness, leather; licorice and tobacco that emerge over time. There is nice depth and plushness to the fruit, but readers will need to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. These are two beautiful wines from Poggio Salvi. The estate’s vineyards lie at an altitude ranging from 300 to 500 meters on Montalcino’s southwest slope. Importer: Shaw-Ross, Miramar, FL; tel. (954) 430-5020