The 2002 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben has distinctly tart black fruit character, augmented by lovely spice, forest floor, and a pungent wet stone minerality, with a clarity and purity of finish – a transparent depth, really – that the 2003s missed. To say that the finish is smokin’ would be quite veritably true, but it is also possessed of a combination of ripe phenolics with fiery bright, vividly fresh berry characteristics that are not to be found in any other wines I know outside of an occasional star of the Cote d’Or firmament. Rolland Velich is no longer working with his brother Heinz at the family estate in Apetlon, but is pursuing his own dream, working with old vines in the heart of “Blaufrankisch country” – Mittelburgenland, specifically Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmark. (Only his winery is located in Grosshoflein.) His are wines in a style you will not encounter anywhere else in Austria: Blaufrankisch vinified as if it were Grand Cru Burgundy, and from hillsides (including terraces) and pre-clonal vines the like of which you will not find being cultivated in most of Mittelburgenland. One sip is an Oz experience (and I don’t mean Aussie, mates!). From his dreams, to his vines, to his vinification, to his retro label, Velich is in a world of his own. He calls his project “Blaufrankisch Unplugged” (and Moric – the derivation of which I shall explain another time – is pronounced like “Moritz”).Importer pending.
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