The 2009 A Mano Edicion Limitada comes in a heavy bottle and with a hefty dose of wood that takes the foreground in the nose, while the ripe black fruit stays in the background. It has the intensity and power of old-vine fruit with (at the moment) an excessive amount of oak which makes it end quite dry. A post-modern Rioja that will require a couple of years in bottle, but seems to have enough stuffing to overcome its upbringing. Drink 2015-2020. LAN was created in 1972 and their wines have seen some ups and downs through the years. The company has been recently purchased by the Sogrape Group from Portugal (April 2012) who is expanding its presence in Spain with this 3.5-million bottle winery in Rioja. It’s still too early to see if the change in ownership will bring any change in the wines. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 255-0674