This is a big, intense offering from Bertrand, showing what fantastic wines can be achieved using international varieties and the Vin de Pays appellation. Black berries, clove, saddle leather and cigar tobacco abound on the nose, while the velvety-textured mouth shows fruit flavors of cassis and black plum with notes of pepper and licorice. A solid structure, good balance, and lengthy finish promise pleasure if consumed now or in the 2–3 years to come.——L.B.(11/1/2009)—— 91