A shade or garnet that may appear distressingly light to some Pinot lovers greets the eye from the rim of Pacalet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, but so does an alluring nose of lightly-cooked red fruits, smoky black tea, toasted nuts, brown spices, and cocoa powder. This is quite juicy on the palate, its fruit admirable transparent to liquid floral, stonily mineral, spice, nut oil, and bitter chocolate notes. Given its relative delicacy; spare texture, yet immediate appeal; low sulfur; and a faint encroachment tannic astringency in the finish, I would plan on enjoying within 2-3 years. The contrast with the corresponding 2005 is as obvious as it is unflattering, but fortunately I did not perceive such a quality gap as I moved up the line in this year's collection, which suggests that the hail in Gevrey may well have played a role in the case of this wine. The elevage for his 2006s was a bit precocious, says Pacalet, though this was not for want of his trying to slow things down and give the wines time to fatten on their lees. In most essentials, however – including his fidelity to whole clusters and stems and abhorrence of sulfur – Pacalet treated this crop much as he had its illustrious 2005 predecessor. (For further details on Pacalet's unorthodox methods, readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 171. And please be aware that these wine demand ideal storage in order not to risk spoilage.) Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191