Pacalet’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin – its quality far surpassing one’s expectations at village level – is sourced from 50-year average age vines in a pair of sites each just east and just north of the village itself. Fascinatingly spicy, with hints of vanilla, wood smoke, and caramel (clearly not from new oak) as well as amply endowed with ripe berries in the nose, this Pinot comes to the palate with an alluring creaminess of texture and an obviously leesy adjunct to its plum, cassis, cherry, soy, iodine, game and champignon flavors. There is a marvelous roasted meat richness and plushness to the finish here, like the concentration of pan drippings. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191