The Brocard 2007 Chablis Cote de Lechet is a bit awkwardly green in a primarily herb and citrus zest nose as well as in its lean expression of acids and chalk. That said, this is impressively concentrated wine that cannot be faulted on extract or sheer length, its leanness ameliorated by textural richness. A satisfying chew of tart fruit skin and brashly-bright; scallop-like, savory salinity; and juicy citrus are its last words. It will definitely be worth re-visiting in 2010. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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