The wines of El Coto de Rioja are traditionally styled. The 1996 Gran Reserva, a 100% Tempranillo cuvee, has more weight and depth. It exhibits classic, old-style aromas of cedar, spice, tobacco and red fruits. The wine is medium bodied and elegant but could use more flavor interest. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 375-0700

This maturing red shows herbal and cedary notes, with cherry and berry flavors leaning toward raisin. Has a firm grip and needs food for balance. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Broad-shouldered and muscled-up, this hearty wine seems more youthful than it is. The nose is spicy and full of lively berry aromas, while the palate is laced with red cherry, raspberry and vanilla. It’s a classic gran reserva with dried qualities and spice. It’s right on the money.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 91