The 1995 Chardonnay Charles Ranch displays a creamy, complex, custard pie, lemony, honeyed fruit-scented nose, and long, dense, full-bodied flavors that possess exceptional concentration, delineation, and freshness. Pain grillee notes give the wine a Chassagne-Montrachet-like smokiness. This wine, which should be enjoyed for its layers of fruit and complexity, is as thrilling as the 1994. Martinelli's top Chardonnays emerge from either the Goldridge Vineyard (Russian River) or the Charles Ranch (Sonoma Coast). There are 600 cases of each in 1995, with the Goldridge scheduled for release in March, 1997, and the Charles Ranch in September, 1997. Both wines had just been bottled when I tasted them. More and more wines made from small high quality producers such as Martinelli are being sold via a mailing list. Readers wishing to secure a bottle or two of their most limited production offerings should know what to do. Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463