INOX—from the French inoxidable—is Chehalem’s stainless steel-fermented Chardonnay, what some might label “naked” or “unwooded.” It is widely available and very appealing, with a tart, stony texture and bright, acid-driven fruit. Green apple and citrus are front and center in this vintage, with a steely spine of natural acid and virtually no residual sugar. ——P.G.(2/1/2009)—— 88