Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Brand, Alsace Grand Cru, France

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The 2005 Pinot Gris Brand exhibits yellow plum preserve and brown spice aromas, a satin-textured, buttery but persistently juicy and somehow delicate palate, and a long, brown spice- and smoke-inflected finish of plum and quince preserves. This should become more interesting with a few years, during which the sweetness will back off, though I am not sure it would be worth holding it in anticipation of the point where one could say it tastes “dry.”The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185