Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Brand, Alsace Grand Cru, France

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From older vines in the evocatively-named Steinglitz (“glint of stone”), the 2004 Pinot Gris Brand S is smoky and carnal in aromatics, strikingly creamy and rich on the palate with caramelized peach, nut oils, mocha, and malt, and a long, low-toned finish. This was on the verge of vendange tardive character as far as near-perfect botrytis goes, explains Boxler, and residual sugar along with the wine’s creamy, caramelized personality make for considerable finishing sweetness. The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Marzipan and wood smoke aromatics on the nose of Boxler’s 2004 Pinot Gris Brand lead to a slippery, glycerin-rich palate of peach and almond paste that does not forsake a certain refreshing juiciness. In the finish, this displays a sense of lift and near-delicacy for all of its ripeness and confectionary cast, a phenomenon that is rare in Alsace Pinot Gris. It’s lovely to drink already if one doesn’t mind a bit of sweetness (from 20 grams residual sugar) but may gain further interest with a few years of bottle age. The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185