Domaine Marcel Deiss 'Burg' Bergheim, Alsace, France

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From a mixture of all Alsace’s cepages (but a plurality of Gewurztraminer) Deiss’s 2007 Burg displays a kaleidoscopically fascinating nose of blond tobacco, graphite, brown spices, talk, peat, musk, and citrus, indeed, if you didn’t know, you might be tempted to ask “What all’s in this?!” to which the answer would be “some of everything.” In this instance, you could be forgiven for speculating that some Cabernet Sauvignon had snuck in from the Medoc. The oily rich palate features tactile impinged by brown spices, chalk, peat, and graphite; and I am only a bit disappointed by the extent to which sweetness dominates the finish. But this will be worth holding for 15 or more years and in the process the balance should improve. Deiss didn’t even bother to harvest a 2006 from this deeply-soiled site, he explained, “because it’s like a sponge, and warm to boot,” thus ideally designed to exacerbate the vintage’s challenges. Jean-Michel Deiss has been officially tasked with assisting his fellow Alsace growers in the drafting of new regional regulations and labeling conventions, in keeping with both France’s proposed move to a higher-order French appellation “d’Origine Protegee” and with the potential regional autonomy provided for (if inchoately) by recent EU legislation. As readers can imagine, Deiss’s vision involves a drastically diminished scope and roll for varietal bottling, analogous to his conception of Alsace crus as being best expressed by a blending of multiple cepages. (For more on the evolution of Deiss’s approach, consult my report in issue 175). Two things are indubitable: Alsace could use fresh approaches to labeling and marketing; and any Deiss proposal will have been thought-through all the way down to its historical and metaphysical levels. Deiss’s own line and labeling have been further simplified: beginning with 2006 his lower tier of wines is being bottled without village designations, leaving him more flexibility in blending. Although Deiss did not bottle a full compliment of his crus from the rot-challenged 2006 vintage, he said he was loath to pull back by settling his musts more aggressively of bottling earlier, “because the lees are the megaphone for the terroir.” Fair enough in principle, but the results were to say the least decidedly mixed, whereas Deiss’s 2007s represent a resounding success. (Deiss did not show me his lower-tier 2006s and I did not have chance to ferret any of them out from the marketplace.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000