Kollwentz Steinmuhle Sauvignon Blanc, Burgenland, Austria

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The 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Steinmuhle displays its usual uncanny alliance of textural creaminess with bright, frsiky acidity, subtly bitter but invigorating fruit skin, and strong chalk, iodine, and salt mineral notes. Black currant, sage, violets, iris, and lime all contribute to the luscious and persistently perfumed effect in this wine that will continue to evolve fascinatingly for at least 8-10 years ,a prognostication based on the impressive track record of several predecessors The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700