If anyone can perfectly evoke the ripe style of California Cabernet along with the structure of Washington state fruit, it’s Peter Rosback of Sineann – conveniently located in Oregon. Why this iconoclastic winemaker does not just move to Washington is hard to figure; he obviously loves the grapes and knows exactly what to do with them. This Cabernet Sauvignon, from a relatively young block at the Champoux vineyard, has some heat and chewy tannins. But it should age well, and the tightly wound herb and tobacco and stone flavors that are now constrained will ultimately come out.——P.G.(12/31/2007)—— 90