How translucently light this Pinot is. You just know from the color it’s not one of those heavy, superripe wines. In fact, it’s as delicate and airy as the fog that visits the vineyard every night. Dry, too, with complex cola, rosehip tea, strawberry, cinnamon and toasty oak flavors. So nice, so elegant, not a big and probably not an ageable wine, but polished. — (12/31/2006) —90