Domaine du Fondreche Cuvee Persia Blanc, Cotes du Ventoux, France

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The superb 2004 Persia blanc (100% Roussanne with one-third barrel-fermented, one-third vinified and aged in tank, and one-third in old wood) has a knock-out nose of a spring flower garden intermixed with hints of rose water, orange marmalade, and citrus oil. It is medium-bodied, rich, with crisp acidity, and a long, heady, intoxicating finish. This is a beauty, one of the best dry whites of the southern Rhone. Drink it over the next several years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083