Pascal Bouchard Beauroy, Chablis Premier Cru, France

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The Pascal Bouchard 2008 Chablis Beauroy – rendered from purchased fruit – is scented with fusil oils, musk, and fresh lime; offers a lean, compact, yet juicily citric, bright palate; and finishes with good, subtly saline and chalky length. I would plan on drinking it over the next couple of years. Pascal Bouchard’s large, north-western Chablis-oriented estate – which I visited this April for the first time in many years – supplements its production with contract fruit. Among Bouchard’s premier crus, only their Beauroy (from purchased grapes) is machine-harvested, and around one-third of their generic Chablis sites are hand-harvested. I have argued and continue to insist that the evidence by no means rules out impressive results via machines, but their relative insignificance at this address is certainly an indication of Bouchard’s seriousness about and willingness to sacrifice in what they believe is the interest of quality.Importers include William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

A mouthwateringly fresh wine, its acidity giving a classic steely, mineral texture. The citrus fruit is fresh, while it also has a rounded character. Toast from wood aging adds another softer aspect. ——R.V.(5/1/2011)—— 89