If his old vines Montmains struck me as not terribly Chablis-like, Pascal Bouchard’s 2007 Chablis Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes – from more than 50-year-old vines – certainly redressed that impression. Smelling of herbed, salted chicken stock mingled with fresh lemon; richly-textured and subtly-oily, yet brightly refreshing; and finishing with admirable lift and length of chalk, salt, and citrus, this should handsomely repay a bit of time in one’s cellar and be worth following for at least 4-5 years. I had not encountered the wines of Pascal Bouchard in many years and found the subset that I tasted this year unusually soft and rich in style for the vintage, and promising as a group. While not enormously concentrated or emphatic, they display considerable polish and bespeak serious intentions and deft technique.Imported by Wineberry America LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 481-0322
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