I have rarely tasted a Ladoix as good as Cornu's 1990 Ladoix-Les Corvees. It is made from a 40-year old parcel of vines with a full southerly exposure. While knowledgeable readers may be skeptical of the wines from this appellation, as they tend to be hard, astringent, and compact, this is a knock-out example from the 1990 vintage. The color is saturated, and the nose offers up aromas of roasted red and black fruits, spicy oak, and herbs. Rich and full-bodied, with oodles of ripe fruit, this lush, expansively flavored wine should drink well for up to a decade. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.