The meaty, rich, seriously concentrated 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape from Chateau de la Gardine (50% Grenache, 20% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah, and the balance other permitted varieties) is loaded with notions of ripe black cherries, new leather, roasted herbs and tons of meatiness. With sweet tannin, excellent ripeness and a great finish, it promises to keep for another 10-12 years.

Perhaps the best buy is their 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition, which is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and the rest Syrah and Muscardin. Their most traditional wine, it sees some aging in small oak barrels but virtually no new oak. Dense purple and soft, with luscious black currant and black cherry fruit, licorice, pepper, and garrigue, this wine displays some subtle smoke in a full-bodied, attractive, velvety style, with sweet tannin and plenty of glycerin and richness. This is a beauty that can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. All four 2007s are outstanding wines.Importer: Shaw-Ross, Miramar, FL; tel. (954) 430-5036.