The tannic, backward 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a cool climate personality. While the tannin needs to become better integrated, the wine is deep ruby/purple-colored and admirably concentrated, offering up notes of espresso roast, chocolate, and black cherries. Medium-bodied, firm, and austere, give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 10-12. Importer: Bercut-Vandervoort, Brisbane, CA; tel. (415) 562-1132

The tannic, backward 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a cool climate personality. While the tannin needs to become better integrated, the wine is deep ruby/purple-colored and admirably concentrated, offering up notes of espresso roast, chocolate, and black cherries. Medium-bodied, firm, and austere, give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 10-12. Importer: Bercut-Vandervoort, Brisbane, CA; tel. (415) 562-1132

Made with a not-so-subtle whack of wood, this Chateauneuf features aromas of toasted marshmallows to go along with ripe cherry flavors. Crisp and medium-bodied, with flavors of vanilla, toffee or caramel and the recurring cherries. Doesn’t seem like a long ager, but worth holding a few years to see if additional complexities develop. Imported by Bercut-Vandervoort & Co. ——J.C.(11/15/2005)—— 87