The 2007 Crianza spent 15 months in French and American oak. It is a step up aromatically with alluring scents of wood smoke, cigar box, incense, balsamic, and assorted black fruits. Elegant on the palate, it has a velvety texture, intense flavors, and excellent balance. Give it 1-2 years to fully blossom and drink it from 2011 to 2019. Bodegas y Vinedos Valduero is a medium-size winery in Ribera del Duero that has expanded operations and is producing wine from several DOs. There is one white wine among the new releases Importers: Alphapac, Miami, FL; Wine Wise, Oakland, CA; Baron Francois, New York, NY; Mid State Wines and Liquors, Houston, TX; Ideal Wine, Medford, MA; www.bodegasvalduero.com

Unusual aromatics for Ribera include minty blueberry and something suggesting metal and chemical. The palate is better despite smack-down tannins and briary raspberry flavors. Has some short circuits as it tries to present an elevated, $30 impression of a distinct wine region.——M.S.(7/1/2011)—— 86