The 2016 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru is immensely impressive, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild blueberries, raspberries and cassis that mingle with notions of dark chocolate, musk, violets and ineffable savory bass notes. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with superb concentration, tangy acids and a long, searingly mineral finish. It's one of the two or three finest expressions of the hill of Corton to be found—with the domaine's fleshier, more gourmand Corton Bressandes not far behind. As readers may know, the de Nicolays’ holdings in the Clos du Roi are located at the top of this large vineyard, where the soils are redder and sandier than those classified—in white—as Corton-Charlemagne but which feature the same type of marl.