You could drink this classic Cab now, tannic as it is, because any wine this balanced and fine can be appreciated. Better to leave it be for five or ten years. It’s a dramatic wine, dense in black currants and black cherries, with a creme de cassis-like unctuousness. Oak has been judiciously applied. After all the new kids on the block have come and gone, Grgich Hills still stands. ——S.H.(11/15/2005)—— 93