Companhia Das Quintas Cabernet Sauvignon Premium (Quinta de Pancas)

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The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon “Premium” (Quinta de Pancas) is what the winery considers to be its best wine, and spent 18 months in new French oak. It is easily the most refined and best structured wine of those reviewed here from this company, but may fall a bit short of expectations. It opens curiously restrained and short. It was in fact a bit scary how dumb this was at first. Its mid-palate is elegant and it has a bright feel. The wine expands, and does improve noticeably with air, the tannins becoming more assertive and the fruit showing more personality. I liked its bright finish. I do not think the wine is as distinguished as its price would suggest, but it did begin to grow on me with some air. It faded somewhat too quickly, and ultimately showed just a little harshness on the finish, too. Drink now-2014. Founded in 1999 and formally registered as “Sociedade Agricola da Quinta do Romeira de Cima,” this company trades under the umbrella name Companhia das Quintas (literally, “the Estates Company”), signifying its acquisition and ownership of six Quintas in various regions, the latest acquisition being Quinta de Pancas. As the formal name implies, they are headquartered at Quinta do Romeira, an estate with roots going back to the early 17th century.Importer for Cado: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 667-0750. Importer for Prova Regia and Morgado Sta. Catherina: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ.; tel. (973) 642-0044. Importer for all other wines: Admiral Wine Imports, Irvington, NJ; tel. (973) 857-2100