Two wines that were performing better out of bottle than they did from cask include the two cuvees of 1995 Hermitage. The 1995 Hermitage Cuvee Classique (125 cases) is made largely from two Hermitage vineyards called Les Beaumes and Les Diognieres. The wine has taken on considerable weight and depth, and is now one of the vintage's great wines. It possesses extraordinary elegance and finesse for a Hermitage, yet marvelous intensity and richness. Full-bodied, with layers of sweet cassis fruit, a multi-layered texture, and plenty of ripe tannin in the 45-second finish, it is an awesome example of Hermitage that should at its best between 2005-2020. As a postscript, readers should be aware that all the Tardieu-Laurent wines reviewed in this segment are very reasonably priced.
A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers