I underestimated the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Blanchots Dessus when I tasted it from barrel, because it emerged as one of the finest wines in the cellar when revisited from bottle. Wafting from the glass with notes of citrus oil, mandarin, white flowers, clear honey and fresh pastry, framed by a deft touch of reduction, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with superb concentration, a racy spine of acidity and a long, penetrating finish. This is just as tensile and incisive as the Romanée this year, but it also carries even more texture and mid-palate volume. Girardin farms this parcel, which is located next to the late Jean-Claude Bachelet's.