You will find great concentration in this fruit, a beguiling play of citrus, grapefruit, peach, apricot and light tropical. It’s infused with a resinous streak that complements the fruit and lifts the midpalate. Sugars and acids are in perfect counterpoint—it’s close to dry but with such richness that it could take on spicy Asian fare. ——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 93