One of the greatest young Barolos I have ever tasted is Pira's 1997 Barolo Vigna Rionda. The total, minuscule production was aged in a new, 600 liter foudre. A dense ruby/garnet color is followed by an explosive yet restrained bouquet of tobacco, black cherries, truffles, dried herbs, and new saddle leather, which intensifies as it sits in the glass. On the palate, it offers extraordinary opulence, luxurious richness, a viscous texture, exceptional purity, beautifully integrated acidity, tannin, alcohol, and wood, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. It possesses unreal levels of glycerin, resulting in a texture comparable to a fine sauce as opposed to a beverage, yet it is impeccably well-balanced. This is a sensational Barolo that magically combines both exoticism and classicism. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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