The estate’s 2005 Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva Lombrone is Tipa’s interpretation of a more traditional style of winemaking. If this wine is any indication, I can only wonder why he doesn’t use that approach more widely. The Lombrone is vinified in open-top wood vats with manual pumpovers and punchdowns. The wine possesses a striking bouquet that leads to an expansive core of perfumed red fruits, roses and sweet spices. This is an especially polished, richly-textured wine with finessed tannins and gorgeous overall balance, all qualities that are especially rare in this vintage. This is a great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Colle Massari is located in the Montecucco appellation, between Montalcino and Scansano. Proprietor Claudio Tipa’s wines continue to improve with each vintage. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725