The estate’s top of the line 2004 Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva Lombrone shows the warmth and volume Sangiovese is capable of achieving in Maremma. With air, notes of scorched earth, menthol, tar and smoke emerge to complement the wine’s dark cherry fruit. Although the wine offers an attractive up-front personality, the tannins ultimately prove to be overpowering. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Proprietor Claudio Tipa is best known for the wines he makes at Grattamacco, but these releases from Colle Massari, in the Montecucco appellation, also merit close attention. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725