Serious is the Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Tour d'Albon, which has its malolactic fermentation done in barrel. There are approximately 20,000 bottles produced. Already complex, the 1998 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Tour d'Albon reveals aromas of jammy black fruits, licorice, and flowers. It is dense ruby/purple-colored, medium to full-bodied 1998 with plenty of weight, depth, and intensity. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2015. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.