Here’s a full-bodied, deeply-flavored young Pinot that combines flamboyance with elegance, a very difficult feat for any wine. There’s an exoticness to the fruits, spices and smoky, sweet oak. They all meld together into some impossibly decadent pastry, and yet the finish is firm and dry. Should evolve through 2012, at least.——S.H.(11/15/2008)—— 94