Enormously rich in creme de cassis, cherry pie and cocoa flavors, which many Cabs have these days. But what’s so special is the tannic structure, which is world class, and could only come from a premier Napa vineyard. This is an amazingly delicious wine, a joy to drink, but it’s best enjoyed now and for a year or three, to appreciate its youthful opulence. ——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 95