The 2010 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro delle Rose comes across as deep, powerful and earthy. This is a decidedly dark, brooding Nerello Mascalese. Firm, incisive tannins don’t seem to soften, even with considerable aeration. The 2010 is best left alone for another year or two, but it is hard to imagine it developing into a wine of true finesse. My impression is that the 2010 will always remain a bit of a brute. New leather, earthiness, tobacco, smoke and incense all add complexity on the mysterious, beguiling finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.
The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887
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