Aromas of citrus blossom, fresh peach, pears and warm pastry introduce Jeandeau's 2017 Viré-Clessé, a medium to full-bodied, lively and precise wine that's elegantly textural but decidedly incisive by the standards of the appellation. With time in the glass, musky nuances emerge, hinting at the presence of some muscaté selections of Chardonnay; Jeandeau opts to raise these in tank, while the remaining two-thirds are vinified in barrel. Since he didn't produce his cuvée "Hors de Temps" this year, all the juice went into this, the regular cuvée.