Mugnier 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses – last tasted from tank, just before bottling – smells of ripe black raspberry pungently accompanied by peat; pepper; decadent, bitter-sweet floral perfume; and chalk dust. This is polished in texture yet possesses refreshing cut of fruit skin and pepper. Again, we have a darkly-flavored Mugnier 2006, with mysterious meat and mineral low-tones, yet at the same time scarcely less airy or wafting in florality – nor, paradoxically, less concentrated – than was the remarkable 2005. The empty glass here is glorious: redolent of green tea, smoldering autumn foliage, fading violets and framboise. This is as close in character as the two vintages in question come at this address, and it would be fascinating to be able to compare them over the next 12-15 years. When asked what he had done differently in 2006 when compared with 2005, Frederic Mugnier replied, "Nothing. I want the character of the vintage to be reflected in the wine as much as the terroir, so I try to hold everything else as constant as possible." While that statement might reflect a bit of hyperbole, it's hard to argue with a collection like Mugnier's 2006s, its wines reflective of their vintage, yet the best of them not really dramatically different from their 2005 counterparts. Certainly they are no less profoundly delicious, and will give more pleasure sooner. (For some details on Mugnier methodology, consult my report in issue 170.) Picking began here ahead of the ban de vendange, "at absolutely the same levels of sugar as in 2005" – meaning at 12.75-14% potential alcohol – although Mugnier hastens to note that it was only well along in the evolution of this collection – and to his surprise – that its ability to hold its own qualitatively with some of the great vintages at his estate became evident. "There wasn't much hail," he relates, "and only in a few sectors did we have to perform serious triage," which chez Mugnier – as at Rousseau – means in the vineyard, not on sorting tables. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70