Sterling has rarely made the list of recommended wines over the last decade, but beginning with the 1991 red wines and the 1993 whites, readers will find that Sterling's wines possess a more natural texture, more concentration, and are now bottled with less manipulation. This rise in quality is evident in the 1993 Chardonnay Estate. It offers an attractive nose with excellent fruit and complexity, medium to full body, and a fragrant, pure personality. Drink it over the next year. Readers on Sterling Vineyard's mailing list may want to take advantage of some of the limited production specialty items Sterling sells exclusively to those participants. There is a delicious, wonderfully vibrant, rich, fruity 1993 Pinot Grigio that was bottled without filtration. It is one of the best I have tasted from California. There is also a 1993 Chardonnay made from a clone with a Muscat-like fragrance that is being sold directly from the winery. Tel. (707) 942-3464.