Brocard’s 2006 Bourgogne Portlandien, from sites in Chitry and Saint-Bris, exhibits low-toned brothy richness dramatically contrasting with the high-tones, brightness, and relative delicacy of the Jurassique bottling. Flatteringly satiny in texture, this well-concentrated Chardonnay is otherwise relatively austere, its dusty crushed-stone character saturating the palate. One senses that more of the distinctive character of this trio of Bourgognes will be developed by playing them off against cuisine, but I would plan to do so within the next 9-12 months. Since my visit, Quebecois cellarmaster Patrick Piuze, who arrived here in 2005 from Verget, has been replaced by Nadine Gublin of Domaine Jacques Prieure. A significant portion of the vast Brocard estate is now being farmed biodynamically. Piuze, like many vintners this year, favored racking his young wines off their lees earlier than usual with the intention of avoiding any heaviness. I did not by any means taste all of the enormous range of wines crafted at this address, and including several different labels. Brocard bottled from 2006 the first commercial quantities of three premier cru cuvees under the name “Quintessence,” each representing a broad range of sites that precludes “single vineyard” status. (I place that expression in quotes, since the names of many of the best-known premier crus by law already serve as collective or alternate names for certain nearby crus.) The blends are largely determined as juice, subject to some later fine-tuning.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400