Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Biaumont

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Bottled– like their other single-vineyard selections – in February, the Goisots’ 2008 Cotes d’Auxerre Biaumont smells of iris; pink grapefruit; chalk dust; and salt spray. Hints of lanolin and vanilla emerge, courtesy of its modest component of new wood. Unremittingly chalky and saline, it is a bit leaner as well as marginally less refined, or complex than the corresponding Gueule de Loup. Hints of cherry pit and pistachio lend a bitter-sweet cast to a tenacious if slightly stern finish. This should merit at least 5-6 years of attention, becoming more generous and harmonious along the way. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040